Wales Coast Path: Harlech to Llanbedr

I was keen to go for a long walk while I was in north Wales, as Eryri National Park and the north Wales coast boast some fantastic walking trails.

Over dinner in Harlech, I got chatting to two couples at the table next to me and they recommended a circular walk from Harlech to the nearby town of Llanbedr, some 7km away.

The walk follows the Wales Coast Path from Harlech to Llanbedr via the village of Llandanwg and picturesque St Tanwg’s Church, then returns by skirting the mountains of Eryri National Park.

The walk starts in the lower part of Harlech beneath the castle, where, from the bottom of the rocky crag, I followed the signs to the beach.

The path took me past a golf course towards the sand dunes of Morfa Harlech National Nature Reserve (above).

The reserve stretches along the north Wales coast from Black Rock Sands near Portmeirion to the Mawddach estuary at Barmouth, and is one of the only growing sand dune systems in Wales.

Home to a number of rare plants and insects, the reserve is renowned for also attracting breeding birds.

I followed the path through the gap in the sand dunes onto the long, sandy beach, where I turned to the south.

As the area’s tidal, I’d made sure to check the tide times before setting off to avoid the risk of getting stranded.

Despite it being the middle of August, the cold wind was whipping up a storm and I was showered with sand as I crossed the beach.

At the end of the beach, I came to a large cliff, where I followed the zigzaggy trail to the top of the rock.

Part way up, a railway line cuts a swathe through the footpath and having checked there were no trains coming, I crossed the track (above).

Towards the top of the rock, I stopped to admire the incredible views over the beautiful, deserted beach I’d just traversed (above).

Emerging onto the main road between Harlech and Llanbedr, I turned to my right and walked along the verge (above) for a short distance until I saw the signs for the village of Llandanwg.

Here, I turned to my right, following the road into Llandanwg until I came to a car park with a small café serving drinks, light meals and snacks.

Near the café, I stopped to take a look inside St Tanwg’s Church (above), which lies amid the sand dunes and is just 20m from the sea.

The tiny church is regularly covered by the encroaching dunes and has to be dug out of the sand.

The present church dates back to the Middle Ages, but it’s built on one of the oldest Christian sites in the UK and features stones with inscriptions that date back to the 5th century.

It’s also the burial place of the Welsh poet Siôn Phylip, who drowned in an accident off the coast in 1620.

After looking around the church, I had a quick peek at the beach (above), before turning back on myself and following the signs for the Wales Coast Path.

The coast path took me towards the mouth of the River Artro and along the banks of the estuary (above).

Crossing a small bridge over the river, I followed the path through an adventure centre to the main road, where I turned to my right.

Here, you can either continue along the side of the road into Llanbedr, or you can do as I did and follow the coast path into and over the adjacent field.

When I came to a small bridge over the river, I bade the Wales Coast Path farewell and turned to my left to continue my walk across the field towards Llanbedr.

In Llanbedr, I made my way to the centre of town, where I stopped at the Victoria Inn for lunch – a tasty bowl of homemade vegetable and coriander soup with granary bread.

On leaving the pub, I looked for signs for the Number 8 Cycle Route as instructed.

What I failed to spot was that almost straight away the route veered to my left. I missed the signs and continued on my merry way following the road ahead, a winding uphill affair.

As I walked along the road, I passed a few tiny villages and the signs for waterfalls to my right. There was barely any traffic, so I felt safe ambling along the roadside, admiring the scenic views as I went.

The road took me up a mountain, where eventually, I reached a crossroads – to my left was a sign to Harlech, to my right Cwm Bychan.

I set off towards Harlech, following the narrow, winding road over the mountain top.

Not long after turning off, I passed a family out walking, but other than them and a car, I didn’t see another soul the entire time I was on the mountain. It was still and scenic.

I spent a good half hour walking along the road and after passing multiple cows, some sheep and the occasional farmhouse, I came to another crossroads and a postbox.

For the first time since I left Llanbedr, I saw signs for the Number 8 Cycle Route and I followed the route back to Harlech.

This narrow stretch of road came alive as I zigzagged down the mountain, passing a flurry of vehicles as I went, and it wasn’t long before Harlech and its mighty castle came into view.

Just outside Harlech, I was intrigued to find a small Scottish Baptist baptism font by the side of the road (above).

Soon after, the streets of Harlech’s distinctive slate-grey houses appeared and I was back in the centre of town.

I really enjoyed my walk along the coast from Harlech to Llanbedr and the return journey over the mountain.

It’s a stunningly beautiful walk with lots of points of interest and St Tanwg’s Church, in particular, is a charming affair.