Portmeirion

Colourful, quirky Portmeirion is a place like no other. It’s a slice of the Italian Riviera, except it’s in north Wales on the picturesque banks of the Dwyryd Estuary, in the shadows of Eryri National Park.

The Italianate village was the brainchild of the Welsh architect Sir Clough Williams-Ellis, who dreamed the concept back in the 1920s, building the Baroque village over a 50-year period from 1925 to 1976.

The village is owned by a charitable trust and boasts two hotels, several self-catering cottages, restaurants, shops and some 70 acres of woodland.

It’s also been the setting for a host of TV shows, most notably the 1960s cult show The Prisoner starring Patrick McGoohan (below) about a spy who’s imprisoned in a mysterious village.

I first visited Portmeirion on a day trip as a teenager and was enchanted by its charms, so I was keen to go back and revisit the village while I was in north Wales.

After buying my ticket at the Toll House, I made my way to the Rotunda to admire the spectacular views over the Dwyryd Estuary (above).

Meandering down to the Shell Grotto, I walked along the quayside towards the harbour and the village hotel.

I then made my way to the heart of the village, past the town hall (above) to the pretty Central Piazza (below).

The Central Piazza is home to a fountain pool, a gothic pavillion and a giant chessboard, as well as the attractive Bristol Colonnade (below).

One of the most striking architectural features is the Campanile or bell tower (below), which wouldn’t look out of place on Italy’s Amalfi Coast.

The Central Piazza is very photogenic and I spent quite a bit of time photographing it from every conceivable angle.

Once I finished photographing, I carried on up the hill to Battery Square (below), stopping to enjoy the characterful architecture as I went.

From there, I made my way up the small rocky crag to take a look at the eye-catching Dome (below).

Noel Coward apparently wrote Blithe Spirit in just six days while staying in Portmeirion in 1941.

It’s easy to see how the imaginative, whimsical village could serve as inspiration for writers, playwrights and other creative types.

It’s a feast for the eyes and the senses, with every nook and cranny crammed with unusual details.

Having seen everything there was to see in the village, I set off to explore the adjoining woodland.

I followed the winding paths along the outer edges of the Portmeirion estate, stopping to look at the trees, bushes and shrubs as I went.

Walking past the heath, I carried on in the direction of the viewing point. There, I stopped for a while to enjoy the beautiful views over the estuary and its long, golden sandy beaches (above and below).

From the viewing point, I headed back towards the woods, where I followed the signs towards the lake.

The lake is filled with lily pads and there’s a small red Japanese bridge in the centre (below).

The tranquil scene reminded me of Monet’s Japanese garden at Giverny, only without the crowds.

The woodland at Portmeirion is delightful and like the village, it’s filled with quirky architectural touches.

My favourite features were the gazebos and temple (above), along with the dogs’ cemetery (below).

I followed the various paths around the woodland, then made my way to the coast to take a look at the lighthouse (below).

Wandering down to the beach, I spent a little while soaking up the views over the estuary (below).

I have fond memories of my visit to Portmeirion as a teenager and remember being awe-struck by how beautiful the beach was, so I was pleased to discover the coastline was just as spectacular as I’d remembered.

From the beach, I made my way back along the shore to the village, where I walked through the Central Piazza one last time.

I really enjoyed my visit to Portmeirion. I’m always a little worried when I visit somewhere I’ve loved in case it doesn’t live up to my memories, so I was relieved to find Portmeirion was just as enchanting as I’d remembered.

It’s an extraordinary place and somewhere that has to be seen to be believed. Photos don’t do justice to how delightful Portmeirion is.

Info

Portmeirion, Minffordd, Penrhyndeudraeth, Gwynedd LL48 6ER
portmeirion.cymru